
Everything You’ll Need
Tool Checklist
| Tool / Material | Purpose |
|---|---|
| Tape Measure | Measure room size and tile space |
| Chalk Line | Mark center and layout lines |
| Straight Edge | Guide straight cuts |
| Pry Bar | Remove baseboards or old floors |
| Spacers | Keep grout spacing even |
| Notched Trowel | Spread mortar evenly |
| Mixing Paddle & Drill | Mix mortar and grout |
| Wet Saw or Tile Cutter | Cut tiles for edges and corners |
| Utility Knife | Trim underlayment or backer board |
| Level | Make sure tiles are even |
| Grout Float | Press grout into joints |
| Bucket & Sponge | Clean tiles and remove grout haze |
| Knee Pads | Protect knees on the floor |
| Safety Glasses | Protect eyes during cutting |
| Gloves | Protect hands from sharp edges |
| Cement Backer Board (if needed) | Stabilize tiles and resist moisture |
Optional (But Helpful):
| Tool / Material | Purpose |
|---|---|
| Rubber Mallet | Tap tiles gently without cracking |
| Tile Nippers | Make small, precise cuts |
| Grout Sealer | Seal grout lines to keep out moisture |
Step 1: Prepare the Space
Take Off Baseboards and Old Flooring
Start by removing the baseboards and old flooring to show the subfloor. This provides a smooth surface for your new floor.
Use a pry bar to carefully take off the baseboards without damaging the walls. If removing carpet, laminate, or vinyl, cut them into smaller pieces and remove all glue. For old surfaces, use a hammer and chisel or a scraper to lift them.
Clean the Subfloor Well
Sweep and vacuum the subfloor to get rid of all dust and dirt. A clean subfloor helps the mortar stick better and prevents flaws in the new floor.
Check for Damage or Moisture
Look for cracks, holes, or uneven spots on the subfloor. Use a level to find low or high areas.
- Cracks or holes: Fill them with patching compound.
- Uneven areas: Use a leveling compound for a smooth base.
If on concrete, use a meter to check for moisture. Fix any moisture problems first as they can cause issues.
Put Down Underlayment or Cement Backer Board (if needed)
Depending on your subfloor type:
- Wood subfloors: Install cement backer board for a stable, water-resistant base.
- Concrete subfloors: Usually don’t need underlayment, but a membrane might be suggested sometimes.
Secure the backer board panels according to instructions, using the right screws and leaving space between panels.
Step 2: Plan Your Tile Layout
Find the Center of the Room and Mark Guidelines
First, find the room’s center. Measure each wall’s middle and draw chalk lines on the floor. The crossing point is where you start, so it looks even.
Choose Your Layout Pattern
Beginners should pick simple layouts:
- Straight Lay (Grid Pattern): Align pieces square to walls for neat, straight rows.
- Diagonal (Diamond Pattern): Lay pieces at a 45-degree angle for a lively look — a bit harder but possible.
Note: Skip tricky designs like herringbone or chevron if you’re new.
Dry-Fit to Check Alignment
Lay pieces without glue (called dry-fitting) to:
- Ensure alignment and spacing.
- See how pieces meet walls or doors.
- Adjust to avoid thin strips at edges, which might look odd.
Spacing and Grout Lines
Use spacers between pieces during dry fit for even grout lines. Common sizes are 1/8 inch or 3/16 inch, depending on piece size.
Calculate Quantity (Add 10–15% for Waste)
Measure the room’s square footage (length × width). Then:
- Multiply by 1.10 for simple layouts or 1.15 for diagonal layouts to cover cuts and future needs.
- Order this amount to ensure enough pieces.
Step 3: Choose Your Installation Method
For most flooring projects, especially larger ones, thinset mortar is ideal for installation. It helps tiles stick well to the floor.
Common Methods:
- Thinset Mortar (Recommended)
This adhesive is excellent for floor tiles. It can manage weight, moisture, and temperature changes. Many prefer thinset because it is durable. - Tile Adhesive (Mastic)
Suitable for small areas or wall tiles in dry places. It is easier to use but not strong for floors or wet areas.
Note: For floor tiles, thinset is typically the best and safest choice.
| Installation Method | Best For | Strength & Durability | DIY Friendliness | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Thinset Mortar | Floor tiles, wet areas, large spaces | ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ (Excellent) | Moderate | Standard for tile floors. Handles wetness and weight well. |
| Tile Adhesive (Mastic) | Small dry areas, wall tiles | ⭐⭐ (Limited) | Easy | Not ideal for floor tiles or wet areas. Faster to apply, but less durable. |

Step 4: Mix Mortar and Apply to Subfloor
Prepare the Mortar
First, mix the thinset mortar as per instructions. Use a clean bucket and a mixing paddle with a drill to make it smooth without lumps. Let it rest a few minutes, then stir again before using.
Apply the Mortar
Use a notched trowel to spread the mortar evenly on a small part of the subfloor. Hold the trowel at a 45-degree angle to make even ridges. These ridges help the material stick well and keep the surface flat.
Work in Small Parts
Cover only the area you can manage in about 10–15 minutes. This stops the mortar from drying too quickly.
Tip:
Spread a thin layer of mortar on the back of bigger pieces for better grip, especially for pieces over 12 inches.

Step 5: Lay the First Tiles
Starting well makes the whole project go smoothly.
Begin at the Center
Use chalk lines to start in the middle of the room or at a key spot. This helps evenly spread the materials.
Place the First Piece
Put the first piece into the adhesive. Press firmly and twist slightly to make it stick well.
Use Spacers
Insert spacers between each piece to keep gaps even for finishing. This gives a tidy look.
Check for Level
After placing a few pieces, use a level to ensure the surface is even. Adjust before the adhesive sets.
Pro Tip:
Work in small sections so the adhesive doesn’t dry too fast!

Step 6: Cutting Tiles to Fit
Cutting accurately is key for a neat look.
Measure and Mark
Use a tape measure to get the size you need. Mark the spot clearly with a pencil or wax pencil.
Choose the Right Tool
For straight cuts, a manual cutter is good.
For curved or detailed cuts, use a wet saw or an angle grinder with a diamond blade.
Cut in a Safe Area
Always cut outside or where there’s fresh air to avoid dust. Wear safety glasses and gloves to stay safe.
Pro Tip:
Measure twice before cutting to save material and get a perfect fit!
Step 7: Install Remaining Tiles and Let Mortar Cure
Begin by placing the first piece of flooring, then continue adding more pieces one row at a time. Start at your chosen spot and lay each piece carefully to keep the lines straight. Check often to ensure the pieces are level, and adjust if needed to prevent uneven areas.
As you lay the flooring, try not to step on new pieces to keep them steady. Work in small areas to make sure the glue doesn’t dry before the flooring is set.
Once all pieces are in place, let the glue cure for at least 24 hours (or follow the manufacturer’s advice) before moving on. Letting it cure properly is important for a strong and long-lasting floor.
Step 8: Apply Grout
After the mortar sets, fill the spaces between tiles with grout:
Mix the Grout
Mix the grout as instructed until smooth like peanut butter.Spread Grout with a Float
Use a rubber grout float at a 45° angle to spread grout over tiles. Press firmly to fill spaces.Remove Extra Grout
After filling spaces, tilt the float to scrape off extra grout from tiles.Clean Tiles with a Damp Sponge
Wait 10 to 15 minutes, then gently wipe tiles with a damp sponge. Rinse often and keep grout in spaces.Final Buffing
When tiles look hazy (after 30–60 minutes), use a dry microfiber cloth to buff and clear the haze.

Step 9: Clean and Seal the Floor
Clean Grout Haze
Once grout is dry (1 to 2 days), a thin film might appear on tiles. Use a damp sponge or grout haze remover to gently clean the tiles. Avoid the grout lines.
Use Grout Sealer
If recommended by the grout maker, apply a grout sealer to protect against moisture, stains, and mold. Use a small brush or a roller bottle for precise application. Allow it to fully cure according to the instructions.
Put Back Baseboards and Strips
Once everything is clean and dry, reinstall baseboards and any necessary strips between different floors or rooms. This gives your new floor a tidy and professional appearance.

DIY vs. Professional Tile Installation
Doing flooring yourself can be cheaper, but it’s not always best. Here’s how to choose between DIY and hiring a pro.
DIY Pros
- Costs less upfront
- Work at your own speed
- Great for small, easy rooms (bathrooms, laundry rooms)
DIY Cons
- Needs time, accuracy, and special tools
- Fixing mistakes can be costly
- Challenging for big or complex spaces
Professional Installation Pros
- Expert skill and durable results
- Quicker for large areas
- Includes prep work, cutting, and cleaning
- Usually comes with warranties
Professional Installation Cons
- Costs more upfront
- Less control over timing
Cost Comparison
Here’s what you might expect to pay:
| Installation Type | Average Cost per Sq Ft | Typical Total for 250 Sq Ft |
|---|---|---|
| DIY Installation | $2 – $8 (materials + rental tools) | $500 – $2,000 |
| Professional Installation | $8 – $25 | $2,000 – $6,250 |
Pro Tips for a Successful Tile Flooring Installation
Want great results for your DIY project? Remember these tips:
- Save time by organizing tools first. Keep them close by.
- Use a good saw for clean cuts.
- Mix small batches. This stops them from drying too soon.
- Check for level often while working.
- Work in small areas. Make sure materials don’t dry before finishing.
- Reduce breakage. Cut slowly and wear safety glasses.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Even skilled DIYers can make these mistakes:
- Skipping leveling. An uneven base causes issues.
- Forgetting spacers. Causes uneven lines.
- Walking on materials before they set. This shifts them and ruins alignment.
- Using too much or too little material. Leads to weak adhesion or uneven placement.
- Not cleaning promptly. Waiting makes residue hard to remove.
Do You Need Professional Help With Your Tile Flooring Installation Project?
Now that you know how to install flooring, you’re ready to make a strong, nice surface. If you want help, we’re here for you.
Our expert flooring installation team can handle it all for you — from getting the subfloor ready to laying and sealing each piece — for a perfect, long-lasting finish. We will also help you pick the right materials for your space and budget.
Contact us today to schedule your free in-home consultation and see if we serve your area!



